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"Liki Tiki"... A Dream

An Idea

I first conceived of the Liki Tiki while living in Honolulu. There is a lot of debate on how the Polynesian people sailed from Tahiti to New Zealand and Hawaii. I talked to some friends about sailing a double hull dugout canoe from Tahiti to Hawaii. All considered the idea unrealistic except one. He asked how I thought it could be done.

We have never seen 40 to 60 foot dugout canoes, the length legend tells about. Trees this size may no longer be available. The first dugouts I had ever seen was in Waikiki. They were narrow 15 to 20 feet long. I had to drop the idea for lack of money and opportunity.

Panama

When I arrived in Panama, I saw hundred's of dugout canoes. Suddenly, building a Polynesian double hull boat became a real possibility. I inquired as to how large dugout's could be made, which was 60 feet. At first I thought the best way to get what I wanted was to buy the logs from a sawmill cut to the shape I needed, then hollow them out myself.

Tuesday, December 4, 1963

I looked up Mr. Fullerton at the Panama Plywood Corp. and showed him my plans for building a Polynesian double hull boat. He became excited about the project and offered suggestion. He told me the best and least expensive was to have the Indians make them. To do this, take a banana boat to Puerto Piņa in the Darien Jungle or Jurado, Colombia that was just over Panama's boarder. There I could have canoes made for what the logs would cost in Panama City. Mr. Fullerton suggest I look up Mr. Augusto Adrian, a German man, at Puerto Piņa, a jungle village in the Darien, and ask him to take me to Colombia.

Ordering the canoes

December 5 -?

The possibilities of this project becoming a real is driving me forward. I can't sleep nights if I neglect making preparations that can be done at that time. I made a model of a canoe from the drawings the Bishop Museum in Honolulu sent me. It is easier for the Indians to understand than a drawing. Found a banana boat going to Puerto Piņa around January 4 to 6. There are none going to Colombia.

December 19

Took the train to Colon to buy charts and get shipping rates to Tahiti on the French Marine Line.

Friday, January 3, 1964

Went to Bob Woods warehouse. Two men told me to go to the dock area. I went and could not find Bob's boat, Morenci. There was another, Doņa Ceci, going to Jaque. When asking about the Morenci, I was sent back to the Doņa Ceci. A fellow by the Doņa Ceci said five dollars every time I asked a question. I finally gave him five dollars for a ticket on his boat. Someone came along and said the Morenci is not leaving until tomorrow. Then the Captain of the Morenci came and asked if I were Mr. Webb. So that I asked for my money back which he gave me with no trouble. They took my bag out of the hole and I went with the Captain.

I was glad I didn't have to go on the Doņa Ceci. The boat was about 40 feet long and had 34 passengers listed on it, also it was loaded with oil drums. It looked as though it would roll over when the first wave hid it.

The Morenci was about 60 feet long and no cargo. Only four passengers. They brought it from anchorage and we left at 3:30 P.M. The sea was a little rough but not to bad. For dinner they served ground up rice and beans. The food looked sloppy. An Indian crew member gave me his bunk for the night. It was a little too short and a little too narrow for me. No mattress, just hard boards. I didn't get much sleep.

January 4

This morning, the sunrise was very beautiful with its rays shinning between the mountain tops and mixing with the low hanging clouds. After another simple meal we arrived at Club de Pesca, Piņa Bay.

The helmsman blew the siren and a fellow came out in a dugout canoe powered by an out board motor. A crewman threw my bag into the canoe and motioned for me to get in. Not knowing what to expect, I got in and reminded the captain to pick me up on his way back. He said he would. The helmsman maneuvered the dugout right under the bow of the, now moving, Morenci. When our canoe was half way past the bow, I was sure the stern would never make it, for the Captain of the Morenci had his engines going full speed ahead. The helmsman gave the outboard a hard left and the stern slid to the side as the bow went by. Onlookers aboard the Morenci thought we were run over for sure. We were under the bow and out of sight for a moment. Welcome to life in the Darien Jungle.

As I walked up the beach, Jose, the manager of the fishing club came out to meet me. I said, "I think I am in the wrong place, I am looking for Mr. Augusto Adrian."

He said, "He lives on the other side of the bay but right now he is in Panama City."

Here I am and the man I want to see is where I came from. I told Jose my plans and that I needed the canoes. He showed me a huge one that was all most finished. 40 X 4 feet. He wanted to sell it, but it was not what I wanted.

Club de Pesca is a first class marlin fishing club and hide-a-way in the jungle for the famous and wealthy. Every guest room comes with a 40-foot deep-sea fishing boat.

I meet Mr. and Mrs. Bob Huges who were guest at the club. We went by canoe to the town of Piņa. The people just stood in their doorways and stared at us.

Jose said, "There is a boat coming about noon and that Mr. Adrian would be on it."

The boat arrived at six and Mr. Adrian got off at his house. It so happens that it was the Doņa Ceci. It left the same time Morenci did but took a little longer.

Cooked lunch under a coconut tree and slept three hours. This evening the manager gave me a good meal and said, "you can sleep on the lounge on the patio. "

January 5, Sunday

Slept good all night, watched another sun rise from my patio bunk while the fishermen were coming to breakfast. By seven most everyone was on their way to the fishing grounds which is about ten miles offshore. About eight AM, new guest arrived by seaplane and others left left. The club is fully booked.

After all the guest were settled down, Jose took some club guest with us across Piņa Bay. We arrived a secluded cove where Adrian's small one room house sits, alone, just inside the jungle. Augusto, a heavily built German man walked down the rocky beach to welcome us. He greeted me like old friends and was the friendliest man I ever met. We walked to his house that was setting alone just inside the jungle. Indians were all over the place. They had come to welcome Mr. Adrian home from the Christmas holidays. They were wearing native dress which includes loin cloth's, streaks of lip stick painted all over their faces and one was wearing a army helmet. I felt like I was back in the 17th century.

I asked Augusto if we could talk privately. He took me inside his small one room cabin. The only furnishings was three single beds. Indians crowded in all the windows watching us. I saw there was not going to be any privacy, so I presented Augusto with a carton of 22 rifle shells as Mr. Fullerton told me to. Then I showed him the model canoes and asked if he could make them fifty-feet long. Everything I asked was possible, he was the most agreeable man I ever met.

Back at the Club de Pesca, the fishing boats started coming in with their catches. Mr. and Mrs. Hues each caught a marlin. 288 lb. and 318 lb. The cook prepared some for dinner and it was very good. The club gives me three meals a day now. Offered them some money for running me around, but they said "no."

A waiter serenade us for a while before we turned in.

January 6

With business finished, I am ready to go back to Panama City. This morning I saw a boat go by the mouth of the bay toward Panama city. I guess it to be the Morenci and they were not going to stop and there was no chance of catching it. Then the club seaplane landed and I asked if I could fly back on it. Jose explained that they can lose there permit to fly if they let other than guest and employees travel on it. So it was impossible for the club to help me. I am suppose to be at work in the morning. Jose radioed a message to my boss saying I would not get back for a couple of days.

January 7

The Doņa Ceci came in this morning and his engine broke down.

When Mr. Doonen, the seaplane pilot, flew in this morning, Jose told him they were low on some food supplies. So it was arranged for him to fly his private plane back this afternoon and I could return to Panama City with him. Three o'clock came and he did not show up yet. The Doņa Ceci was getting ready to leave. If I don't get on this boat and Mr. Doonen does not show up, I may not get out of here for another week. Jose radioed back and the home office said "Mr. Doonen didn't leave yet. He would not fly down if he could not get back before dark."

I took the gamble on the plane. Doņa Ceci left and I waited and worried. At five o'clock, Mr. Doonen flew over the fishing club. I ran and grabbed my bags and jumped in the boat that was to take us around the point to Puerto Piņa, where he landed on the beach. When we got there, Indians from the village surrounded the plane and its cargo that was stacked high on the beach.

Mr. Doonen asked, "Do you have any money."

I said, "I have $20."

He said, "It will cost you $10."

The plane was a Cesna 187 with only one seat. So I sat on my nap sack. We flew low along the coast line. Sometimes the engine started sputtering. Mr. Doonen grabbed a knob and twisted it until the engine smoothed out. It made me nervous. After watching this a few times, I was faster at grabbing the knob and twisting than he was.

The coastal Darien Provenance of Panama is no-man's land with uninhabitable mangrove swamps then jungle at higher elevations. Mr. Doonen flew over the beach just above tree height. There were so many logs on the beach, there was no way to make an emergency landing without hitting one. Earlier this year, a twin engine Beach-Craft crashed in the mangrove swamp a quarter a mile from shore . It was five days before the passengers were found alive. When we passed Tucoman International airport, we flew below the tree tops. Mr. Doonen didn't want to fly too high for fear of being hit by a jet plane at the end of the runway. Our wheels were almost touching the logs on the beach below. He decided to fly a little higher and said to watch for planes. I kept stretching my neck, trying to look over the tree tops.

Just before dark we arrived at Paitilla airport, a small air strip in Panama City. Mr. Doonen made a smooth landing in a strong cross wind. I felt my first contact with jungle Indians was very successful.

Anti American Riots in Panama

January 9 - 12

I was in the move theater when they flashed on the screen, "Those living in Ancon, check with authorities before going home." Tension between the US and Panama had been building for weeks. I knew something was happened, so I rushed to the boarder to see what was going on. On Forth of July Avenue there were hundreds of rock throwing people trying to march down Balboa Avenue into the Canal Zone. The police set fire to the grass on both sides of the road while firing tear gas into the crowd. The crowds were throwing back rocks and setting up a barricade of oil drums. Under normal conditions, few rocks can be seen, but the four lane highway looked like a gravel road. I assumed trucks dumped rocks for the demonstrators. After a while the army moved in to relieve the police, then I had to leave.

January 22

I wanted to know the status of the dugout canoes. I took a taxi into Panama City and told the driver to take me to Club de Pesca. Inside, I told someone I wanted to talk to Jose Fernandes at Puerto Piņa. He turned on the radio and handed me the mike. I said, "I do not know how to use it."

He pressed the button a few times, handed the mike back and left the room without saying anything. Soon someone told me I can't call Piņa Bay from here. They sent me to Pesca Radio shop which was not right either.

I went to the Hilton Hotel and and told a travel agent I wanted to call Club de Pesca in Piņa Bay. They told me the office is one block from the hotel. At the club, the receptionist called Jose Fernandes, but he had no word from Augusto.

January 30

I received a call from Mr. Adrian and he said, "I am at the Balboa YMCA. Come over and I will tell you what is happening."

The YMCA is a short walk from my apartment. This is where we did business from this time on.

Mr. Adrian said, "I talked to the Indian Chief. First they will not build it for less than $110 each. If you agree, they will start in two weeks and will have the dugout canoes finished by the end of March at the latest."

Mr. Adrian talks like there is nothing in it for him.

I said, "OK."

After talking to people who have done business with Mr. Adrian, I found it difficult to believe that he could fill the order. Jobs that have the greatest financial rewards are completed first. $110 is double the standard price. A friend ordered lumber over a year ago and still does not have it.

While Mr. Adrian was in Panama City, a group of men came toward him. He is German but looks American. He garbed his two children and jumped on a passing bus. Panama City has more busses than cars, so it seems. He did not realize the Panamanian's hatred was so strong toward Americans.

February 28, 1964

I looked up Mr. Fullerton at the Panama Plywood Corp. and showed him my construction plans. He said, "the design was better than what he could think of." He suggest I use Bamboo through out. It will make the craft flexible and Bamboo can be repaired when broken.

March 5

I drove to the Club de Pesca office to radio a message to Mr. Adrian. The girl at the desk told me the Piņa Bay Club is shut down. Then she asked if I was an American.

I said, "Yes."

Then she asked, "Are you not afraid to be walking around Panama City?"

Then she went on, "American people like Panama, but the Zonean's want to fight us all the time."

I asked her to repeat that again, not sure I heard her right. Then I said, "I thought it was the other way around? You people started it all."

I realized I was out of place. I am on their territory and asking for a favor.

March 9

Wanting to know how the canoes were coming, I made arrangements to go to Piņa Bay on the banana boat Morenci. I had grown a beard for two days and dressed sloppy so as not to attract attention. After dark, I took a taxi to the docks which is in a rough part of town. I walked to the end of the dock where some people were sitting and tried to become friendly. In a little while, a group of young people were walking toward me. I sat, waiting to see what they were going to do, which was to board the boat I was sitting by. So I went half way down the dock where some other people were sitting.

I waited three hours for the Captain of the Morenci to arrive. He never showed up. I called Bob Wood, the owner of the boat, and asked him what happened. He said, "Morenci was at anchorage and you were to take a row boat out to her."

Missing the boat, I grabbed my nap sack and jumped into the first taxi that came by.

March 10

Went to Mr. Woods Banana Co. He made arrangements for me on another boat. Told me to go down the dock and look for Mr. Palmer, Captain of the Doņa Ceci. He would be there for another hour. Went to the dock and there was no Doņa Ceci.

Business really did not want Americans on their premise. Radicals could cause an incident and their business or boat would be under investigation. The situation has been very tense the last few weeks. I went into Panama City under strong protest from my friends. Some claiming I have a lack of common sense, which I could not deny.

What I Know About Mr. Adrian

He was a spy in Panama for the Germans during World War II. He was captured and put in a prisoner of war camp in Oklahoma. Later he was sent back to Germany in a prisoner of war exchange. At the end of the war, he left Germany and hid out in the jungles of Panama, finally settling there. I believe, if Hitler were to rise again, Mr. Adrian would be one of the first to follow him. He is still a German at heart and would like to go back to his country if it ever became a world power again.

Being a likable man, he makes friends with everyone he meets. The Indians accepted him as one of their own. He knows how to barter to get what he wants. When I met him, he had two young sons by an Indian woman. I never did see her that I know of. Once he said his favorite exchange was the Indian Chief's daughter for a shot gun.

He lives on a desolate rocky cove on Piņa Bay by himself, a mile from the nearest neighbors. He does not seem to have any worries and nothing seems to bother him. He will promise anything, but that does not mean he can deliver. If he ever hesitates, that means he cannot deliver while he says he can. This seem to be general business attitudes. His friendliness makes it impossible to get mad at him when he does not deliver.

An airplane drops a newspaper at his house as it flies overhead, several times a week. It seems strange, he lives in the middle of no-where and he reads today's paper today.

Mr. Adrian seems to be the only person in Panama who has access to large trees and the skilled labor to make dugout canoes.

May 10

Mr. Adrian called me to the YMCA. He said, "Your canoes are finished. All that was needed was to float them down the river. One problem, the river is low because of the dry season, but will be deep enough in two weeks."

I said, "I want to be there when they bring the canoes down river."

He said, "I will let you know."

May 26

No further word on the canoes. I found a barge leaving for Piņa Bay tonight. Took time off from work then found out that the barge was not leaving for a couple of days.

Went to the docks to search for another boat. I asked a man if he spoke English and told him that I wanted a boat going to Piņa Bay.

He said, "See that man over there, he can help you."

I went toward him when I noticed it was Mr. Adrian. I said, "I am looking for a boat to come down to your house. I don't have to now."

Mr. Adrian said, "I have some bad news. One of the canoes split open from end to end like a watermelon. They have to cut another tree and start over. I have eight Indians working on it right now."

I felt the stories of promising and not delivering was coming true. For the next month, I never saw or heard from Mr. Adrian. I refused to give any more money until the canoes are delivered. I figured he never started building them, so he was going to stay out of my sight. During this time I had given up on this project.

July 9

Joe Brooks, who I met on the Amazon River, had arrived a few days earlier. I decided to give the project one more try. I heard Mr. Adrian was in Panama City, so Joe and I looked for him for three days. Seemly we were always five minutes behind him and never finding him.

We decided to go to Piņa Bay and look for the canoes ourselves, to find out if they were really built or not. We boarded the Doņa Ceci at 5 PM for the overnight trip to Piņa. The boat was loaded with oil drums and passengers. There are no provisions for sleeping, just find a place among the cargo.

After a couple of hours, everyone started to settle down finding a flat place to sleep on. The only place I could find was on top of oil drums filled with gasoline. People were smoking, not worrying about possible gas explosions.

In the morning, after a not so good nights sleep, we had breakfast. Hot-dog, bread, and coffee.

At 9 AM, we stopped along the mountainous rocky coast to let some Indians off. There was a very attractive Indian Girl on board that changed into Indian dress before departing. That is, she was wearing only a cloth wrapped around the waist. The woman in the canoes that came to get the passengers were dressed the same way. The men wore shirts and shorts. Joe did not see this girl coming toward him until she was right in front of him climbing over oil drums. His eyes and mouth flew open.

Later he said, "I almost jumped overboard."

The Captain told one of the Indian men, the girl owes $3. One of the men pulled out a wad of bills and paid the fair. It looked as though he had more money than I did.

We arrived at Piņa Bay at 11 AM. Somehow, we were on shore without paying, when we heard the Captain hollering, "Come back and pay your fair," which we did.

We met Mr. West, the new manager of Club de Pesca and told him about my dugout canoes.

He said, "I hear they were finished, but do not know where they are."

Joe and I decided to walk to walk to the town of Piņa and try to find where the canoes are. Up a steep hill we followed a muddy slippery trail. Then we slid down the other side. At the bottom of the hill was a river. I knew the canoes were on this river somewhere. We were looking for a place to cross when I saw two large canoes in the brush. I told Joe, these must be it. They look similar to the model I gave them. We measured them at 40 ― feet.

I said, "This is it."

The workmanship was excellent. The wood seemed to be poor. Each of the bows were split and one had a big split in the side. I had to accept them, because they would never make another.

It rained all the way back and Joe rolled down one of the muddy hills. We went slipping and sliding our way back to the Club de Pesca. We saw one snake. Before we got back, we tried to wash some of the mud off of us. We needed to look somewhat presentable at this swanky fishing club.

I asked the manager if we could stay under the boat shed.

He said "No."

I asked if we could cook our meals under the boat shed.

He said "No, we will find a place for you."

In a little while he told us to come with him. He took us to one of the guest cottages. It was a very impressive layout. There was a large picture of a marlin hanging on one wall. The view through the picture window looked out over the bay through the palm trees.

Mr. West told us dinner will be ready in half an hour. We showered and went to see what was in store for us. The dinner table and the way everything was served was the most formal I have ever encountered before. Silverware seemed to be endless on either side of the plate. No one sat until the women were seated. The waiter always served from the proper sides, not taking any short cuts. Women were served first and no one started eating until they did. The conversations was always on pleasant subjects or joking mood. Whenever I said anything outside of this policy, it was disregarded by the host.

Just before dinner, the cook had an apparent hart attack. Mr. West went to some of the visiting boats in the harbor looking for a doctor. He came back with a dentist. He was able to analyze the problem and found it not to be serious.

July 10, 1964

If I had known the unfortunate events that wait for me this day, I would have never have come to Piņa Bay.

We had a good breakfast, them Mr. West asked me what my plans were for today. I told him I wanted to make arrangements to get my canoes shipped to Panama City.

He said, "Bring your canoes to the club and we will put them on the barge."

I assumed his crew was going to help tow the canoes to the club. At 2 PM, when the tide was high, I went to the office to tell Mr. West that it was time for us to go after the canoes. The office clerk said, "Mr. West was taking a nap."

I told him, "Mr. West made arrangements to tow my canoes to the club."

The clerk assigned me a boat crew.

The boat crew, Joe, and I got into the runabout which took us to one of the fishing boats. I asked if we were going in this and they said "yes."

I was a little surprised that they would take a large deep-sea fishing boat up a small river, but assumed this is what Mr. West told them to use.

We went around the point and a short distance up the river to where the canoes are. We tied a line to them, but they were so heavy the captain could not control his boat. One of the lines was picked up by the propeller and broke. We took one canoe back to the club and let the other drift in the incoming tide. While toeing, Joe and I kept the canoe bailed out.

The other canoe had drifted up river a long ways. We finally found it and was towing it back down river when we met Mr. West coming up the river in a small dugout canoe. I waved and thought he was coming to see how the operation was coming. He came on board, obviously mad, and asked the captain why he did not have his radio on?

He said, "It is not working."

Then he asked me, "What in the sam hell are you doing with my boat up this river?"

I was so shocked I could not say anything.

He said, "I'm too mad to talk now."

Then told the captain, "Lets go."

No one said a word all the way back. At the office, there was a conference to find out what happened.

  1. I took full responsibility for the mis-adventure. I told Mr. West that I assumed that you authorized your people to help me bring the canoes to the club. I was wrong.
  2. Mr. West said he did not offer to bring the canoes to the club, it was up to me to find a way. I only offered to put them aboard the barge.
  3. It would have been impossible to bring the one-ton canoes to the club without the use of his boats. He has the only power boats in the area.
  4. The office clerk's instructions to the boat crew were misinterpreted. He said to use the small dugout canoe. The boat crew assumed a deep-sea fishing boat was to be used.
  5. It was against company rules to take a fishing boat out without a working radio, which we did.
  6. It is against company rules to take the large fishing boats up the Piņa River, which we did. Mr. West turned down a request by the Governor of Florida to take him up this river.
Mr. West made it clear that this matter was to be forgotten when we leave this room. We were to say what we wanted to say now and when we leave, to carry on as though nothing has ever happened. He said, "You are still welcome to have dinner with us."

Joe and I really wanted to stay out of sight. Later Mr. West suggested we come to dinner, that there will be a lot of important people from Panama City that you would like to meet. He was sincere, so we went.

Before dinner, at the bar Mr. West asked if I still wanted to fly back to Panama City tomorrow. I told him I would like to.

He said, "We will fly you back at no charge."

The club did not charge us for anything. My kind of money was change for them.

We had a very pleasant evening along with a very good meal. After dinner, Mr. West led a tour of Mr. Smith's new house up on the side of the hill. It was the most fantastic home I have ever seen. Modern decorator throughout. Not a square corner in any room, extremely thick carpets, and every time he showed us a bedroom we assumed it was the master bedroom. When we finally arrived at the master bedroom, there was a grand view of the bay, the bathtub looked like a swimming pool.

July 11

A few weeks earlier, the club seaplane sank while at anchor. Now the guest must travel several miles down the coast to an airstrip in the town of Jaque. At 8 AM we motoring along the coast in one of the deep-sea fishing boats. At a semi-protected cove, where the surf wasn't running too hard, the crew dropped anchor. The dugout that followed took the passengers ashore through the surf. The dugout captain circled just back of the breakers. When the timing was right, he gunned the outboard and we went surfing in. Someone hollered "hang on."

Then we hit the beach and Joe and I went flying. Then we understood what they said.

There was the long hike back to Jaque. As we walked along the beach, hundred's of sand crabs went running in all directions. Then a hike through the jungle until we arrived at the air strip that was hidden by its eight foot tall grass. At the end of the air strip was a twin engine Beach Craft waiting for us along with the new guest and a large pile of supplies.

Guest coming and going were complaining about the long hike to the boats.

The pilot taxed the plane around the air strip like a hot rod. Flying back, two club employees were on the plane. One of them said, "If this plane did not have two engines, I would not go."

It took only an hour to reach Panama City.

When I left Piņa, the canoes were beside the barge and Joe was to make sure they are loaded on the barge. Mr. West said, "I will see to it that they were loaded."

I felt everything would work out without any trouble.

July 12

After work I went down to meet the barge as it came in, but the canoes were not on it. I asked Joe, "what happened?"

Joe said, "The canoes were so heavy that twenty men could not move them."

In the days to follow, the pieces of the mystery fell together.

  1. Mr. West supervised the loading of the barge. After the barge was loaded with club supplies, Mr. West told the crew to put the canoes on and left. It was every man for himself, so nothing moved. The canoes weigh one-ton each.
  2. There was no money in it for the captain so he would not help. The barge was hired to carry the club supplies. Sense this was not club property, the captain felt it was not his duty to take them without additional payment. Talking with the captain later, he said, "I can lift them for a fee."
July 23-25, 1964

Made arrangements with Mr. Palmer of the Doņa Ceci. Joe and Mr. Adrian went along to supervise the operation. I told Joe to get them to Panama City and not worry about cost.

The canoes were setting on the beach and being buried deeper in the sand with each tide. The first operation was to dig them out and slide them into the water.

At Adrian's house there were a lot of Indians were waiting to greet Mr. Adrian home. He mixed a gallon of alcohol with four gallons of water, cool aid, and sugar. After the Indians had a couple of drinks they were ready to go dig out the canoes. One Indian patted Joe on the shoulder and said, "I will get your canoes in the water if I am the only one over there tomorrow. With a little alcohol, they can do anything."

Eight Indians showed up at the club the next morning. Mr. Adrian brought the drinks along and in short time they had the canoes out of the sand. Then they slid them 60 feet on balsa logs to the water. Joe tied the canoes to a log at low tide.

July 26

The next morning one of the canoes was full of water when the Doņa Ceci came to tow them. After a little experimenting, they found towing stern first allowed them to plane on the surface. They were bow heavy.

When they arrived in Panama City and stopped at the docks, one canoe was still full of water and sank to the bottom. The water soaked wood is heavier than water. A man in a row boat said, "I will take the canoe to the beach for a fee."

He did not know there was one on the bottom.

Joe said, "OK."

Then told him about the other on the bottom.

The boatman had a lot of trouble dragging the one along the bottom, but he got the job done.

At midnight, when the tide was low, Joe and I went to the beach and bailed them out.

July 28

Met Mr. E. M. Smith at the Balboa Yacht Club at 7 AM. In his boat we motored over to the Panama City docks. The canoes were floating high and tied onto them. I paid Mr. Palmer, Captain of the Doņa Ceci, his fee. We started to leave when the Panama National Guard came after us. Mr. Smith had to go to the office. He was told he needed clearance papers to come here and let him go.

The canoes towed very easy backwards.

When we got to the small boat ramp, Mr. Morris, a Panamanian, was waiting with my car.

I had made sleds for hauling the canoes out of the water on rollers. One canoe was loaded and ready to tow with my car. Bang! Bang! then I heard the engine fan go into the radiator. The motor mounts broke.

There was a boat waiting to come in and I had the ramp cluttered with my equipment. I waved him in and he pulled my car off the ramp and made room to pull his boat out of the water. At high tide, I tied the canoes in the near be bushes.

August 1

At high tide we put the sleds under the canoes . When the tide went out, the canoes settled nicely on the ramp. The front end was jacked up and set on rollers. Skip Rosinki came with his truck and in a couple of hours we had the canoes in the parking lot. A few boat people were mad at us for taking so much time on the public ramp.

Skip was a writer for Yachting Magazine and is my advisor on boat construction. He is now building a sailboat to cruise around the world when he retires.

Shipping the Liki Tiki to Tahiti

August 3

The French Consulate issued my visa for Tahiti. I finally found someone at the French Marine Lines who could get some action. He sent a cable to Paris right away seeking permission to load my 40-foot dugout canoes and myself aboard the MS Euphrate that was due in Panama August 14.

Joe Brooks ship arrived. He finally left for New Zealand.

August 7

A cable came back from the Captain of the MS Euphrate saying there is a passenger cabin available and 45-feet of deck space, but he wants to inspect the cargo before accepting them. The MS Euphrate will arrive and leave on August 14.

That is less that 24 hours. There would be no time to make decisions in one day. So I took the position that it was go.

I called Mr. Ebdon, my boss and told him Sunday is my last day with the Panama Canal Company. News and rumors spread extremely fast as to why I was quitting.

August 12

The canoes were ready to be shipped. At 10 AM the trailer truck and fork lift arrived. The canoes were loaded on the truck like they did not weigh anything. Then they were trucked to the Panama Railroad freight house, to be shipped by train to the Atlantic side. The clerk told me they need one day notice before they can accept a shipment. I told them the ship is arriving the 14th and there is no time. The clerk found a 50' flat car that could be unloaded now. Then canoes were loaded, they took the full length of the car.

That afternoon, I came back to the freight house to fill out the papers. They called the French Marine Lines and was told the ship will not arrive until the 19th. I was glad for the extra days for I still had a lot of work to do.

While driving Jerry Lion's car, I had a collision with another car during a heavy rain storm. Went to court the next day and the Judge found me guilty.

August 20

I finally had everything packed and ready. Jerry Lion drove me and my boxes of equipment to Cristobal. Unfinished business could still kill the project. No one at the French Marine Lines would confirmed my passage, shipment of canoes, or tell how much it would cost. When we arrived at the office, the office clerk said, "the ship will dock at 2 PM."

Nothing was said about the captain wanting to inspect the cargo and no talk of cost. Assuming that the French Line was going to accept my cargo, I finally asked, "How much do I owe you?"

The clerk told me to have a seat and left the room. After a long wait he came back and quoted me a price that was one-quarter of what I was expecting to pay. This was the first hint my passage was approved.

The ship did not dock until 7:30 PM. At that time I was escorted to my corner cabin that was facing forward right under the bridge. It also had a privet bath. I then went to meet the other passengers who were watching the crew load my dugout canoes.

August 21

At 5 AM, tugs were sounding their horns outside my cabin. We were pulling away from the dock. At 6 we were entering Gatun Locks where ships are lifited 85' above sea level. The trip through the canal was fascinating, my first. When we arrived at Pedro Miguel Locks, Richard Wood was the only person I saw that I knew. At Miraflores Locks, the crew I worked with pulled our ship through. Had a good time waiving and hollering at everyone. By noon we were headed out to sea.

At lunch we were served a nine course meal. More than anyone could eat. Sat around deck all day. At dinner they served a six course meal.

August 22 - 24

Every morning from my cabin, I could see what the seas were like. This morning the seas were a little rough and it seemed to rain all the time, the doldrums. The food is excellent.

August 25

We crossed the equator today.

For some of the crew, this is their first trip across the equator. King Neptune's initiation party was held for them. Some ship's officers dressed as a man from Mars, a policeman from India, and a mummy.

There were three gullible teenage boys in the ships crew. Co-workers had been telling them that they would be thrown overboard along with a lifejacket. If all went well, they would throw a line. If they missed catching the line, the ship would stop and pick them up providing the sharks did not get them first.

One boy was tied to the chair, the other two got up and ran through the cargo and disappeared. Also, there were two older men being initiated who sat calmly and played along with the game.

First they had to eat raw salted fish and wash it down with salt water. The they were painted with a green oil looking gunk. The fire hose was turned on them that cleaned up the mess. The green gunk was shampoo with green food coloring.

Construction of the Liki Tiki

September 2

Arrived in Tahiti at 5 PM. Papeete is a very small town. The main street is right on the water. Shops and the post office on one side and moored yachts on the other. Ships tie up wherever there is room. Everybody including ladies rides motor bikes or scooters. At night, the streets are very dimly lit. The headlights are a dim yellow. The appearance is a quite and peaceful town.

I walked among the yachts telling people of my Liki Tiki plans and that I was looking for crew members. They could see the 40-foot dugout canoes at the main dock. There are no fences around the cargo areas. Everyone is very trusting.

Slept on board the ship tonight.

September 3

Found a hotel that would allow me to store some of my supplies under their back steps. I had seven boxes loaded with sails and tools setting on the dock. Went through customs and told them what the boxes were for.

They said, "OK."

I thought they would ask me to open them. They didn't seem concerned. Taxis are trucks with benches in the back. I hired a cab driver that was very helpful in getting my boxes moved to the hotel.

Found one prospective crew member today. He told me the idea is crazy, but would like to consider it. He invited me to have dinner with him on his friend's boat. His friends did not think much of my idea.

September 4

Looked for a place to build the Liki Tiki. Land around the island seems to built up. I was told there was public land that can be used. I went to the town hall and asked for permission.

The office girl said, "You can build your boat on any public beach in Papeete."

I said, "I don't think I can build it there."

She asked, "Why not?"

Life seemed too simple to be true.

My hotel room has a privet porch looking out over the harbor on main street. The activity of the commercial harbor to my right and yachts from around the world to my left. Slow pace street life below me.

September 5

Rented a motor bike today. Drove around the island looking for a place to build Liki Tiki. Two miles past the airport I found a coconut grove on a coral reef. It was hidden from the main road and no sand meant there would be no swimmers. I found the owner, Mr. Andre Coudert, in a nearby house and I told him of my plans.

He said, "Sure you can build you boat anyplace between my house and the Polynesian village that is a quarter mile down the beach."

Near the village, there was a dirt road that a trailer truck could haul the canoes down.

Continued to drive around the island looking for other locations. Rain at the south end of the island forced me back.

This evening I talked to some more people about my project. They thought the idea was nuts.

September 6

Cleared an area for the Liki Tiki and a place for a trailer truck to turn around. Tried to open a coconut and soon gave up.

September 7

Made arrangements to truck the canoes to the coconut grove in Punnaauia.

Talked to some more people about my project. They said they had a friend coming this Sunday that wanted to do the same thing. I showed them my construction plans and their opinion was negative.

September 8

Went to do some more clearing at the construction sight. On arrival I found someone was using what I cleared to dry split coconuts. Soon a partly crippled man arrived with more. I tried to explain what I was doing, but he became scared of my actions and left.

September 9

Talked to a man about my plans at a boat yard. He said I could have lumber sawed at a lumber mill right up the street. At the lumber mill I was told they would first find a tree, cut it down, bring it to the mill and saw it into boards.

I said, "Never mind. There was no time for that, I will use standard construction lumber."

September 10

Went to Mr. Maurel's office who is my customs clearing agent for the canoes. He had promise that the papers would be signed so I could move the canoes. They weren't.

He said, "Come back next week."

I started walking toward the customs office to complain. Mr. Maurel went by on his motor bike. He stopped and motioned for me to go to the customs office. At the customs agents desk, I had my Liki Tiki plans laid out and explained my project. He became very interested and was giving my advice on how to build the boat. I soon walked out of the office with the papers signed.

Made arrangements with the SAT-NEW Co. to truck the canoes to the coconut grove.

September 11

Spent all morning loading and unloading the canoes. We traveled down main street past the yachts which had everyone stopping and looking. Because of the size of the load, we had a police escort out of town.

September 12

Went to the lumber yard and bought some lumber. Hired a taxi truck to pick up the lumber and boxes from the hotel. The driver did not like the heavy load.

At my new home in Punnaauia, I used the sail to make a tent over the canoes. Strung up a jungle hammock and set up housekeeping on the beach. This was to be my home for nine months.

Cooked supper and watched the sun set on Moorea through the coconut trees. It was very beautiful to watch. After dark, the birds sang in the trees and I could hear the surf pounding on the reef, far from my location.

Took a bath in a small stream flowing through the coconut grove fed by an artisan spring. Wrote in my log by candle light. My life on a beach in Tahiti has started.

September 13

Started to work on the boat today. Mr. Andre Coudert, who owns the land, came by and invited me over to his house this evening. When he left, it started to rain and the wind blew the rest of the afternoon. I had trouble keeping everything dry and was concerned that the tent would blow down.

When the rain stopped, Tahitians from the nearby village came over with hot coffee and bread. I do not speak French or Tahitian so we talked by gestures.

Had a pleasant evening at Mr. Coudert house. I was neatly dressed.

He said, "I have a wife, a maid, and live in a house, my clothes don't look that neat."

September 14

When I woke this morning, Tahitian's had hot coffee and freshly baked French bread sitting on the canoes. They did this every morning for nine months. Paying for friendly gestures or tipping in Tahiti is an insult, so I gave them gifts on occasions.

Lined up the two canoes and started placing the cross beams.

A teenage Tahitian speaking girl comes and goes all day. At first I tried to be friendly with her. She brought me bucket of water for washing and a gallon jug of drinking water. Time was passing and nothing was getting done. It seems I had to make a choice on the second day of construction, women or the boat. If a person wants to work, Tahiti is the wrong place to live.

Went to Papeete tonight by bus. Ate dinner and bought a few things. Tried to take the bus back, but no busses after dark. Took a taxi and paid their outrages fees.

September 15

Work on boat until 10 this morning. Went to Papeete only to find the bank was closed until 2 PM. Bought a stove and five gallons of kerosene. Came back and found the tent had blown down. Uneven stretching was ruining the sail, so took the tent down and used it to made a small shelter for the tools etc.

September 16-17

Worked on the boat two full days and accomplished a lot. Went to Mr. Coudert's house Wednesday evening. A friend that was visiting him told me to come to his office in the morning and he will help me get supplies for building the cabin.

September 18

Went to Papeete and made arrangements with a boat owner to get bamboo and pandanus for the construction of the cabin. Went back to work on the boat and asked myself if this idea is crazy.

This evening after dark, a beautiful Tahitian teenage girl from the village walked into my camp in her nightgown followed by a group of small children. Not accustom to Polynesian customs, I did not know what to do. If I put my hand on her, the kids would run back to the village and announce everything I did. Or, is this a type of Polynesian marriage, take one of their girls to bed and she is yours. The children are there to witness what I do. Still, whatever I do or don't do, the village will know about it. Will I be run out of town if I accept her or will I be rejected by the village if I don't accept her?

My custom is, relationships are private. I don't want kids running around the village announcing my every move. Decisions! Decisions!

September 20, Sunday

Went to Papeete trying to keep my mind off the project for one day. Wanted to go to Moorea, but backed down at the cost. At the time, I did not know I was quoted a one-day tour that included a Luau.

September 23

Went to Papeete this morning and ordered the last of the supplies I should need while in the coconut grove. Received the bamboo and pandanus from Moorea. Made arrangements with a bus driver to deliver them.

At noon I talked to some people from the cruise ship North Star. I said, "I am taking this bus back, you can come along."

I had the bus half full with tourist. There were four Polynesians playing guitars. The outside of the bus had flowers tied all over it. Two O'clock came and we were off, so I thought. We were driven around town and the fellows were playing and singing. We did not understand what this was all about until the bus driver stopped by the ship North Star. The bus was hired for a tour. We went back to the bus station and found another bus. I finally got back to camp.

In a little while, a another bus came backing in with my supplies. Heavy beer drinkers seemed to be falling off the bus as it rolled in. Passengers were stumbling all over the place. Somehow they got all the supplies off and everyone crammed back aboard. I asked the driver how much I owe him and he said, "I don't know and drove off."

I buy all my supplies and just get receipts for them. I give the receipts to a bus driver and he goes around picking up the items and delivers them to the boat.

This evening, two Polynesian fellows came by with bread-fruit. I asked them what it was. They built a fire on a large pile of rubbish and put the bread-fruit in the middle. When the fire burned down they pushed a stick into it and took the burnt shell off. They handed it to me on a stick and said, "drink coffee with it" and left.

It was very dry and could not eat much of it.

September 24-30

Still building the boat by myself and looking for a crew. Coconuts fall from the trees very often. One landed inside the canoe, ten-feet from where I was working. Branches also keep falling. None have hit the tent or hammock yet.

I have been trying to cover the outside of the hulls with tar. It seem to get onto everything except where I want.

Tahitians stopped by and give me fruit. Today it was bananas and mangos.

I find the evening very enjoyable, quite, and peaceful, and have lost desire to spend evenings in town. I sit and watch the night life, stars, l Lashing the cross beams to the canoes using coconut fiber rope. ights on the water, people wondering through the woods and watch jets landing at the Faaa Airport. When the planes turn their landing lights on, they light up the whole area, then disappear behind a small hill between me and the airstrip.

October 1, 1964

I used a double notch technique to hold the cross beams to the hulls and used the same technique to raise the sides another twelve inches. The notches held the boat together without fasteners. When all the pieces were fitted, they were removed. The hulls would be pushed into the water one at a time. Once in the water, the pieces would be reassembled and lashed together with coconut fiber rope.

About 1 PM a jeep came into camp with Andre and four Tahitians to launch the canoes. They quickly gathered coconut branches and put them in front of the canoes, making it easier to slide into the water. They put the back of the jeep next to the hull and zoom, one hull was in the water, then the other. In fifteen minutes they were gone. The launching went so fast, I could hardly believe it.

Each of the hulls had leaks in them. Swelling should take care of leaks in a few days.

This evening after dark, Andre came over. While talking, something with four legs and a tail ran up my leg inside my trousers. I shook it out and it ran up my other leg and shook it out of that leg. It was dark and difficult to see.

I said, "It must have been a mouse."

Then Andre said, "Look, its on your shoulder."

It turned out to be a lizard.

Buses In Tahiti

Taking the bus to and from Papeete is a time consuming job. Every trip is an adventure in itself. The central market in Papeete is the terminal point for all busses. All busses are trucks converted into busses. Passengers load from the rear. There is an assistant that collects the fairs. At first, the five mile trip to Papeete and back took six hours. In time I got it down to four hours.

The 6:30 AM bus to Papeete is loaded with school kids. There must have been 90 on one bus I took. They are designed for 30 adults. I had to hang on the outside. Bus drivers always stop, room or no room.

One evening in Papeete, I go on a bus, to me, was already fully loaded. Passengers gave the driver receipts and he goes around and picks up the supplies. Then back to the market place where more people get on and more supplies need to be pick up. This went on for an hour. When it came my turn to get off the bus, people were packed in so tight, the only way out was through the window.

One can't be in a hurry when traveling by bus in Tahiti. On the back of every bus that leaves the market, strings of fish are hanging. Should a passenger want some bread from a store, he tell the driver and the driver sends his helper into the store for the bread. If some of the passengers want beer, the driver stops at a store and all the beer drinkers bail out. With another bottle of beer, the bus is off.

A Tahitian when drinking is a very happy man. He loves everybody and everybody is his friend. One man kept offering cigarettes to everybody, then he would offer wine to everyone, and when passengers got off the bus he wanted to pay their fair. No one accepted his offers, but everyone got a kick out of it.

October 6

The hulls and deck are finished. Today I built the cabin frame.

October 7

Put a temporary pandandus roof on the cabin. It looks like a raft now. Andre came to help poll Liki Tiki to deeper water. The water near shore is only 15-inches deep at high tide. The boats draft is 12-inches and getting deeper. Some potential crew members were to help, but they never showed up.

Getting the boat to deep water, about 200 feet out, was a lot of work. All was going fine until we hit a rock, the wind then blew us in another direction. Back under control, we polled along the edge of a coral trench. At a narrow gap, we tried to push across the trench with one push. The wind blew it back over the trench. Andre put on swim fins and tried to pull the boat by swimming. Back at shallow water again, we polled back to the narrow gap. Andre's maid paddled out in a outrigger canoe and took the anchor across the trench and dropped it. By pulling to the anchor and resetting the anchor, we were able to reach the sunken ship on the edge of the reef. The maid tied a line to the ship to secured one end of the boat. She then lost her balance and fell into the water. We were laughing so hard we didn't notice that the wind was blowing the boat until it slammed it into the ship. We finally anchored the other end and everything is under control.

Tahiti looks different from out here. It felt like being on a new island. The mountains in the clouds, the island of Moorea, the reef under the boat take on a much greater dynamic affect. One hull sets on the reef at low tide while the bottom can't be seen at the other end. Visibility is 30-feet down.

It would be several days before I would be able to live aboard Liki Tiki.

October 8

Built a bamboo raft to poll or paddle out to the boat. I could not make it go in the direction I wanted. Was frustrated by the time I got to the boat.

Working on the boat over deep water was really enjoyable, everything is so beautiful water, sky, and the islands.

Worked on the cabin today. Lashing takes a great deal of time.

Rafting to shore at low tide is impossible. I had to pull it over the reef.

October 9

Used Andre's canoe to go out early this morning. The water was calm and clear with hundreds of brilliantly colored fish swimming around the coral all the way out. When on the boat, I just sat and watched them for a long time.

Worked on the cabin some more.

Coming back this evening the tide was way out. I paddled until I hit coral, then pulled the canoe until it was too shallow for that. Most of the coral heads were out of the water. I found a shallow ribbon of water about a foot deep. I marked the channel with sticks in the coral heads and used the route from this time on.

October 10

Used the bamboo raft this morning. I found it easier to poll in the direction I want to go rather than fighting to keep the raft pointed in one direction.

Before lunch I went for a swim, it felt good.

I needed a rest from the Liki Tiki project. This evening I went to the Bel Air Hotel and phoned a taxi. I spent the next two nights in Papeete. Wished I had stayed in camp, did not enjoy it.

October 12

The wind blew so hard today I could not work. I almost did not get back to shore because of the off shore wind. Went to Papeete and ordered another load of lumber. It was poring down rain when the the lumber was delivered. From late afternoon and throughout the night, wind and rain kept me struggling to stay dry.

October 13

Finished putting the pandanus roofing on the cabin.

A week ago I fell jumping across a stream. I did not know it at the time, but I broke a rib. Today the pain is very strong and can feel the broken bone rubbing together.

October 14

Went to Papeete intending to see a doctor. Bought an elastic bandage instead. Wrapped it around my chest and it felt much better.

Walked along the waterfront looking for someone to tow Liki Tiki to Papeete. Talked to a boat owner and he said, "Someone already made arrangements with me to tow your boat."

Back at camp, made another bamboo raft and loaded it with lumber and other supplies and towed it out with the canoe.

October 17

Moving day - Loaded the canoe and rafts with all my supplies of extra pandanus, lumber, trunk, large wooden box, kerosene, cooking gear etc. It took half and hour to paddle this load out to Liki Tiki. Spent the rest of the day setting up house keeping. I am now living aboard the Liki Tiki.

The shore line this evening was beautiful with almost a full moon and lights on the shore. Shadows on the reef below makes it seem we are floating in air.

October 20

Towing day - Went to shore with the raft to fetch the canoe. Towed the raft back, took it apart and stored the bamboo inside the hulls. While doing this, a Tahitian paddled up with a bundle of unneeded pandanus I dumped overboard the night before. I had to take it back.

Went to Papeete and found the captain aboard the power launch and asked when he would be ready and he said, "I am ready now."

The crew was relaxed on the benches when the captain said, "Lets go."

This launch was about 60-feet in length with a crew of eight. It seemed to be overkill, but his price was fair so I could not complain. When we arrived at the Liki Tiki, the captain would not go close to the reef. I dove in and swam toward Liki Tiki. Then one crew member tied a line around his waist and passed me up dragging a long line.

Liki Tiki was bow heavy and would not tow bow first. Towing from the stern solved the problem except the tow was too fast and the bow wave dumped water into the hull. At a slower speed there was no problem. In Papeete, the captain made a run for my assigned slot on the beach. As he turned away, the crew untied the lines and Liki Tiki drifted in with no problems. The crew dropped the anchor from the bow and I throw the stern lines to waiting friends on shore.

By this time people were gathering around looking at my strange boat. Spent the rest of the afternoon with newspaper reporters and photographers.

October 21

Woke up this morning with 100 people watching me and the strange looking Liki Tiki. I grabbed my tooth brush and hurried around to the bow and out of sight. Cleanup done, I went ashore, pushing my way through the crowd and found a quite restaurant for breakfast. When I returned a couple of hours later, most of the people had gone.

Tried to do some work, but the excitement, newsmen, photographers, school kids with their teachers kept me busy. Made headlines in one paper, a full page article on the inside of another, all mentioning that I am looking for a crew.

October 22

Two fellows came by who were interested in crewing. Not too many visitors today.

A man stopped by and gave me a letter. He was very much interested in my project. Then he came back this evening and asked if I would have dinner with him. He is a student of Polynesian history. He was disappointed that I did not know more or was better informed about Polynesian history.

October 23

Mark, a Frenchman said he would like to go with me. He has never been at sea in a small boat before and does not understand what it is I am trying to do.

October 24

At 1 AM the wind picked up and the waves were rolling in, breaking into the parking lot. My anchor has slipped a little allowing one hull to bang on the rocks. Took up the anchor line and the anchored slipped even more. The bow is almost hitting the British boat next to me. After failing to keep the boat off the rocks, I woke Bill and asked if he had an extra anchor. He did and we were able to set it out far enough to hold. At 5 AM there was a crash outside. I jumped up and the fellows on the trimaran were coming out of their cabin. The wind had shifted and my boat hit theirs. They let up on their lines and let it swing on the anchor line. The Liki Tiki went on the rocks broad side this time.

I lifted one anchor, put it on two planks and swam to deeper water then dropped it. Pulled the boat off the rocks and did the same with the other anchor. When I was finished, the wind blew hard and heavy rain like I never saw here before. My cabin stayed dry and the boat rode the waves with no problems. A number of small boats were pounding on the rocks.

I made coffee, sat and watched the hulls react to the wave action. It gave some indication how they would react at sea. When the rain stopped I went into town. When I returned, there were two policemen were pulling on Liki Tiki's lines. I came from behind and asked what the problem was. They did not speak English and motioned for me to get into the car. We went to the port captain's office. The Port Captain told me, "You cannot leave Tahiti on your boat. All vessels must be seaworthy before leaving the harbor."

I asked if I could consider this statement for a few days.

The port captain said, "Sure."

Sense things were not going as planned, it might be easy to accept his request.

October 25

With no more hope of finding a crew, Mark towed Liki Tiki back to where I built it. When the Liki Tiki was over the shallow reef, a canoe of tourist came by wanting to help. They finally made it over the coral heads, came aboard and tried to help pull Liki Tiki over the coral heads. We didn't get very far so they left. I had better progress by myself. Soon Andre and his wife came out in their canoe. They helped me bring the boat to shore. Then they wanted to know what was wrong.

I had ideas of redesigning it to make it lighter so two or three people could handle it instead of the five I was seeking. For the next few days, people now showed an interest in crewing. I told one he could go but he never came back.

While I was working on the boat, a Coast Guard Cutter stopped off the reef from my camp. After that, all I could see was a cannon pointing at me when trying to leave at night. That knocked the last bit of incentive out of me.

November 1964

What Went Wrong?

There was a tremendous amount of criticism of my project. Everyone had a reason why the Liki Tiki could not make it to Honolulu. They are as follows:

  • The raft will break up in one to three days.
  • Tar on the hull will not stop the worms from eating the hulls. There will be nothing left to reach Hawaii.
  • The boat will surf down a wave, one hull will dig in and stop while the other keeps on going ripping the boat apart.
  • The deck is too close to the water. (22-inches)
  • Will not sail on the reach, only down wind.
  • The hulls will fill with water faster than they can be bailed out.
  • No ribs in the hulls, will not stand up to the pounding seas. Sides and bottom are two-inches thick.
  • Hulls are too far apart. (5 ― feet. Total beam 12-feet.)
  • Cross beams are not strong enough. (6-3x6's & 11-2x6's)
With everyone giving opinions, only one asked to see a construction drawing of the boat. In Panama I went over the design with people who had a lot of experience with dugout canoes as well as cruising sail boats. People in Panama are very well informed of the good and bad points of dugout canoes. The canoe art is lost in Tahiti.

Some interesting ideas:

  • Burn a thick layer of charcoal on the outside of the hull. Worms will not attract charcoal.
  • Make a watertight inter self-bailing deck as well as an outer one. This would reduce the amount of bailing.
Back to the States

I bought a boat ticket to Panama. From there I flew back to the states.

January 1965

Made a brochure of the project and went to New York City and Washington, D.C. looking for a sponsor for my project. Everyone was curious, but not interested enough to sponsor it.

March

Finding no support, I flew to Honolulu and looked up Bob Krauss. I asked if there are people in Hawaii interested in this sort of project. He took an instant interest and reviewed the project over lunch. A few days later he had an article about the project in his newspaper. After that, I had about fifty people asking to join the project.

I talked to a Jr. High Hawaiian history class about the project. They were the most interesting group of people I have ever talked to. They may take up a class project for me to carry plants that the old Hawaiians brought with them.

Bob Krauss and I went over contract terms for writing a book. He may be able to get some money for the project.

March 29

Flew to Tahiti today. Another article about my project and departure was in the newspaper. Everyone on the plane must have read it and everyone was asking questions.

March 30

Went to Hotel Tahiti to meet the French couple that was on the plane. They called two airline hostess that they new, rented a car and we all went out to see the canoes. They were the most weather beaten hulls I had ever seen, but everything was as I left it four months earlier. A Tahitian from the village opened coconuts gave us all coconut milk.

We ate lunch at the Waikiki dinning room. Afterwards I went back to the coconut grove to try and setup camp. I just got started when it started to rain. I ran to Andre's house only to find someone else was living there. He was a new Court Judge in Papeete.

March 31

Looked over the lumber and found the termites had eater through all it. The hulls are OK.

April 1, 1965

Moved from the hotel in Papeete to the coconut grove. Looked up Frances Cowan who is also trying to build a similar boat. His boathouse and boat was burned to the ground. His kids were playing inside when something caught on fire.

Found my sails today and they were completely rotten. I find myself with two hulls and little money. Mr. Cowan is left with much money and no hulls. Do not know who is better off.

April 2

Customs extended the time limit for six months to get the dugout hulls out of Tahiti. If not, I will have to pay duty on them.

I am only defeated if I want to be.

April 4

At 5 AM, the wind blew and the rain came down, the wind blew harder and my thatched hut fell on me. In five minutes the storm was over. With some boards, I propped the roof up a little and slept till daylight. The hut was the cabin I used on the boat last year. Hung everything up to dry and spent the rest of the day in Papeete.

Folk Lore

When I first came to Tahiti, I carried an umbrella when it rained. I got stares and laughs for some reason. Today I found out why.

In time past, when a fellow wanted to ask a girl to marry him, but was too shy to ask himself, he would ask a friend to make the proposal for him. The friend would hold an open umbrella while making the proposal. Onlookers would laugh and make fun.

April 5

Rented a motor bike and drove around the island.

Went to Andre's house for dinner this evening. I asked how I can get permission to sail out of Tahiti.

He said, "Go and don't say anything to anyone."

April 6

It rained on and off all day.

Three men came by this evening with plans for the new hotel that will be built here. The layout was impressive, a large lagoon, yacht harbor, an island restaurant, 200 room hotel. I mentioned Andre's name and they said they did not know him.

I said, "He is the owner of this land."

They said, "We are the owners of this land."

They didn't seem concerned that my project was on their land.

April 7 - 25

With some changes in the boat design, I was able to use most of the lumber. With a brace and bit, I drilled about 1,600 holes. Rope has to pass through each hole from two to eight times. The mattress factory sewed the sails. I cut the cloth to size and they sewed it. Andre came with the jeep and the two of us pushed the hulls into the water with little effort.

I have been offered the use of a electric drill press by a Frenchman who is moving to Tahiti. He is the new manager at the airport restaurant.

My Judge friend bought a outrigger canoe. I told him I would give him a tour of the reef. We went to deep water, swam for a while. Getting back in, it sank under us. So we towed it to a coral head and bailed it out. The next day we were paddling out again when the canoe flipped, laying us flat in the muddy part of the reef.

One night, there was a very high tide and the Judge lost his boat. He woke me and asked if I would help find it. We borrowed a Tahitian's canoe and went looking for it and never did find it. It could have gone out to sea. Two houses were knocked down in the Tahitian village. I had no problems.

May

Worked on the boat every day. Progress is slow but I feel good about it. I feel better organized this time.

June 7, 1965

Charles Boone arrived this evening. Could not get him a hotel room, so I brought him to camp with me. He was very tired and doubtful about the project. I said, "This is to be expected and you will have up's and down's about the trip from time to time."

June 11 - 12

The tides have been extremely high the last few days. This allows ocean waves to ride across the outer reef and come ashore. The Liki Tiki rides them with ease.

We are in the last stretch of the lashings. Over 2,000 holes drilled.

Letters from Arthur Melcalf, a crew member I selected in Hawaii, are very encouraging. He is doing a lot of study and planing of this project.

June 18

The Judge took Charles and I to Papeete to get iron wood trees that were cut down for construction of the new harbor. We loaded what we could in the back of his car.

June 19

Raised the mast. Many Tahitians were watching and some said "very good" in English. I was busting with pride. It looks like progress is being made now.

Charles Nash is an Englishman who married a Chinese girl here. He was part of the filming crew for the movie "Mutiny On The Bounty." He now works for his in-laws in their snack shop. Charles Boon and I stop at his shop every time we are in town. Charles Nash stories of Bounty filming seem to be endless entertainment.

Went to the airport to meet Arthur this evening. He was not on the plane. A few days latter I received a letter saying he could not come for financial reasons.

June 28 - July 13

I was searching for Mark, the Frenchmen that was interested in going with me last year, and learned he drown while scuba diving. They don't know what happened, his body never came to the surface. I passed the word I was still looking for another crew member, no one was interested.

One day, Charles and I were weaving bamboo mats for the deck. A Tahitian man watched us for a while and shook his head. He motioned that he would make them for us. The next few day he made all our bamboo decking.

About the first of July, I had to fight heavy winds and rain for a week. The camp was blown apart, falling coconuts finished what the wind did not do. So we built a low profile shelter to withstand the elements. The middle of July our shelter paid off, we kept dry for the first time in another storm.

July 14 - 28

The Fete is carnival time for the next two weeks. People from all the islands in French Polynesia come to Papeete. Schools are opened up for housing.

Game of chance, eating, drinking, and dancing. Ferris wheel, marry-go-rounds, etc. Parades down main street, boat races, group dance contest, spear throwing contest.

Work on the Liki Tiki came to a stop. No one works during the Fete.

August 1 - 14

Charles and I were invited to an Tahitian feast serving all kinds of Tahitian foods. Everyone eats with their fingers.

Progress has been so slow since the Fete, I almost gave up. The money is going and the work is not getting done. Charles has lost all interest in the project. I had to keep pushing.

August 15

The Tahitians finished the cabin. They built it with coconut palms, lashing everything together with inter bark from nearby trees.

We are ready to learn how to sail the Liki Tiki. Andre came to help move Liki Tiki to deep water, but there wasn't much tide. Now we have to wait for a strong tide.

Learning to sail the Liki Tiki

August 26

At long last a high tide came that could float the Liki Tiki to deep water, but it was stuck in the mud. I put a poll under the stern and pried it, it moved a little. Did it again and it moved some more. Little by little I got it out of the mud into deeper water. This time I walked on the coral heads pushing toward deeper water. Tahitians on shore were giving directions that kept me away from the shallow coral heads. It was a zig-zag course and I kept my eye on them. There were three Tahitians about 100 feet apart on shore, as one was out of range another would continue the directions. When I arrived at the channel, a Tahitian paddled out to help move it to the edge of the inter reef. Then the wind blew Liki Tiki back on a coral head. We took a anchor to deep water, then pulled the boat into safe water. Now it was floating free.

Charles was in Papeete and on his way back, someone told him I had left. He didn't believe him but was surprised to find the Liki Tiki in deep water.

Lashed the steering oar in place. Put fresh water on board and lashed everything loose down.

Charles wants no part of the voyage and will not bring any of his things on board.

August 27

At noon there was a fair wind blowing from the S.W. We decided to give Liki Tiki a trial run. We pulled the anchor up and were able to sail away from the reef. Soon it pointed into the wind and stayed there. It would not fall off, soon it was going backwards. With a little speed for rudder action, I could swing the stern around. The wind filling the sail properly, Liki Tiki would charge ahead and soon head up wind again. I did not seem to have any control. This time we ended up on a coral head. We dropped anchor and the hull floated free.

Our sails are too small and the cabin is too big. Wind pressure on the cabin over rides the wind pressure on the sails.

August 28

The Tahitian bus driver who delivered my supplies invited me out to a Chinese dinner at the Dragon Bar. The meal started at the bar at 7:30 PM. In time all the guest had arrived and each of us were wearing a flower head band. Then we went to a large round table with very formal setting for eight people. Around the outer edge were dinner plates. The inter circle had plates filled with Chinese food. In the center was a pot of boiling water. To start, everyone took their chop sticks and picked up a slice of fish and held it in the water. I had trouble holding onto mine, the girl next to me helped out. In a little while our waitress did the cooking. About 9:00 PM I was full. The host said, "Take it easy boy, this is going to last till mid-night."

I sank in my seat. I thought I would never make it. By 11 PM we were finished. I was the only non-Tahitian at the dinner. The Tahitians were supportive and seemed to have adopted me. Americans in Tahiti created the biggest problems for me.

August 29

I wanted to make a trial run to Moorea and made arraignments three times during the last few day to get a tow out of the lagoon. Andre asked his engineer if he could tow us. He said, "I will be by first thing in the morning."

He came by in a small boat with a 3-HP motor.

He said, "I could not get the other boat."

I took the out-rigger canoe and went into the lagoon to flag a power boater. There were many boats pulling water skiers. Everyone stayed clear of me, maybe they thought I was waiving them off.

This afternoon a boat came near the Liki Tiki and I waved them over. I asked if they could tow us down the coast to where we could sail through the reef. They agreed. Charles said, "I will not go to Moorea unless that boat went with us," so we tied up to a tree by the channel entrance.

August 30

Took part of the cabin down for less wind resistance.

Liki Tiki at Sea

August 31

There was a strong wind from the N.N.E. With no one willing to tow us through the reef, I decided to try sailing out. Charles helped me cast off and set sail, but he did not jump off as planned and it looked like Liki Tiki was going to make it. Then we hit a coral head, spinning the boat around and soon we were on many coral heads. We dropped anchor and Charles swam to shore and asked some near-by friends to help.

Liki Tiki was towed through the reef and I was on my own. I was the happiest person in the world. I gave up on any trial run, so I let the winds carry me as fast as I could from Tahiti. Then I would turn and sail for Hawaii. Liki Tiki was doing four knots in a twenty knot wind. I used only the main sail, the mizzen sail did not work. On the reach, Liki Tiki would steer itself. I had to bail every three hours. The decks were not awash.

I was informed that the governor had given orders to bring me back should I try to leave. On the horizon, I saw the mast of the Coast Guard Cutter near the reef opening. I guess they never saw me or they were not going to chase me at sea. By 1 PM I was out of sight of land. Sundown was the perfect evening. About mid-night Liki Tiki was sailing without any help, so went to bed.

There was no compass, navigation equipment, or charts on board. I was to sail as the Polynesians did centuries ago.

September 1

This morning the sky was dark with a heavy overcast. The seas were confused and the wind light. Some of the rudder lashings came undone and repaired it like it should have been done the first time.

I had no idea of direction, the wind was picking up so I decided to sail down wind. Trade winds always blow from east to west. I saw what looked like a squall to my port. About an hour later I noticed the dark cloud never changed its shape. Hard rains came and went all morning, every time they let up I could see that shape. I begin to realize it was an island, if so, which one. I sailed toward it all afternoon. At 5 PM the overcast lifted and I saw I was sailing on the south side of Moorea and Tahiti was ahead of me. I then sailed toward Tahiti till mid-night when the wind died.

September 2

At 6 AM the wind was blowing out of the south. I sailed up the coast of Tahiti to where I started. I learned how to handle the Liki Tiki now and we were getting along just fine. I kept just off the breakers looking for the channel. When I got close to where it was suppose to be, I could only see rolling surf. This was the first time I got scared. I only had one chance to get inside, if I missed, I would be smashed by the breakers. Not being able to see the channel, but knowing it should be there, I turned in keeping an eye on the color of the water and the foam from the breakers guided me in. I was in the channel and soon another wave broke behind me. I was inside. I was doing very well when I lost the wind. The current started taking Liki Tiki back out the channel, then a breeze blew and set Liki Tiki on a coral head.

A Tahitian fishing near by help me set an anchor, except he motored away so fast I lost the end of the line as he threw the anchor in the water. My only anchor and line was lost. Coral heads were not going to let the Liki Tiki go very far, so the fisherman took me to shore.

I knew I was defeated and would not try again.

The first person I saw was the wife of the UTA Airlines manager. She said, "my husband was very worried the last three days. Yesterday he said 'Bob will be back today. If not, I am going send out a search party.'"

I was extremely disappointed, but everyone was glad to see me back. Back at the old camp sight, I tried to comprehend what went wrong. Later in the day I decided I had better go back and get Liki Tiki off the coral heads. I have no money and all my food is aboard. When I got back, someone pulled Liki Tiki off the reef and tied it up at shore.

September

I sold the Liki Tiki to the Bali Hai Hotel on Moorea. They used it to carry their guest out over the reef.

End of a long adventure.

In Retrospect

To sail to Hawaii, someone would have to be at the helm all the time. With one man, Liki Tiki would be sailing in the right direction only when I had time available for the tiller. Hawaii could not be reached in this manner. Islands down wind could be reached.

I said to myself, "I will never try another adventure trip again."

I was not back in Hawaii long when that adventure spirit came back. I was wanting some way to bring this expedition to a successful finish. If I don't make the trip, someone else will. With all my savings spent, I had to go back to work. When this expedition will be carried out is yet to be seen.

Mr. Augusto Adrian

The most unforgettable person I ever met.

Panama, May 29, 1967

Mr. Adrian called me from the Balboa YMCA, our usual meeting place, and asked me to come over. In the lobby of the YMCA he told me his life story as follows:

He came to the U.S. in 1923 as an immigrant from Germany. Moved to Panama in the '30s. Was a spy for Germany during the Second World War. September 1942 he was caught and sent to a prisoner of war camp in Oklahoma. In time he was asked if he wanted to go back to Germany.

He said, "Yes, more than anything in the world, I want to go back to Germany."

In a prisoner of war exchange, he was shipped to a Norwegian ports where the exchange took place. Back in Berlin, he was drafted in the Army, then assigned to a regiment in France. He showed a sworn statement, that he had to sign for his release, that he would never take up arms against the U.S. So they sent him to the Black Sea to fight the Russians aboard a navy ship.

One day the captain called him to his office and said, "You don't take this war very serious, do you?"

Adrian said, "My home is in Piņa's Bay, Panama."

The captain said, "Ha, ha, you are not a fanatic Nazi. You are not a true German."

Adrian said with tears in his eyes, "With all my heart I am a true German. With all my heart I am for the Nazi cause."

The captain said, "You don't salute like a fanatic Nazi."

During the next few days, Adrian practiced the Nazi salute. Back in the captain's office, Adrian put so much enthusiasm behind his salute, the captain said, "You are more than a fanatic Nazi, you are a threat to this outfit. I am a man of a kind heart and we will watch you."

The captain's "attitude charge" was grounds for execution. Mr. Adrian was so wrapped up in telling his story that he forgot where he was, I think. Several times in the crowed YMCA lobby, he would jump up and act out the Hi-O-Hitler salute with full body force and voice volume. Then he would sit and whisper his true feeling, suggesting that no one else should hear this. His voice becomes loud and boisterous when he had statements he wanted everyone to hear. He was reliving his experiences.

I dare not look around, because everyone must have been starring at us. I kept my eyes focused on Mr. Adrian.

In a few days, a high ranking officer came aboard. It was Adrian who was to greet him at the gangway. Adrian said, "I put all I had into the Hi-O-Hitler salute. The other officers gave a modest salute. The officer returned the old Kiser salute. I made a fool of myself."

While stationed on the Black Sea, he took leave inland. He met some fellows of another outfit in a bar. He said, "Something told me not to talk anymore."

Adrian just looked out the window listening to the conversation. Someone said something about the V-1 or buzz bomb. Its capabilities are fantastic. One blew-up on the launch pad and killed many people.

Soon men in long black coats came into the bar and asked the men for their ID. Adrian was from a different outfit and said he just arrived. They let him go. He heard the men were executed the next day.

Near the end of the war, he was in Berlin. The Russians were closing in and could hear the cannons. He knew he had to get out of Berlin now. If the Russians capture him and find out where he was fighting, he would be a dead man.

He went to a high ranking friend and asked for a way out of Germany. His friend gave him a pass that would get him on the train and a blank pass with stamps and a signature. He could fill it out as needed.

He rushed to the train station when two guards stuck rifles in his stomach and asked, "Where are you going?"

Adrian said, "I am carrying secret mail and showed them his pass."

They let him in the station.

The station was the worst suffering of humanity he had ever seen. Men with arms and legs missing. Men, women, and children starving to death.

His train pulled into the station. It was jammed packed with people hanging unto the roof. Children crying, men groaning with pain. He saw a open window with a big lady taking up two seats.

He asked, "Will the honorable lady move over and give a desperate man a seat."

She said, "No."

Then Adrian put his pistol to her ribs and told her to move over. She did. Adrian said, "I don't know how I did it. I climbed up the side of the railroad car and crawled through the window into the lady's lap."

He got off in his old home town which was near the advancing American Army. His relatives are strong Nazi's. Soon the American Army came rolling through town. The first vehicles had two machine guns with men who had very stern faces and pointing them at any possible trouble. Adrian and his relatives were along the street with everyone else watching. Soon a G.I. handed him a chocolate bar. They hadn't seen chocolate in years. Then he felt better.

Soon someone said, "Don't eat it, it is poison."

Adrian asked, "Why would a G.I. want to poison us?"

He ate it and no one else would.

Soon a G.I. came to Adrian with sweat poring down his face, shoved a rifle in his stomach, with quivering hands on the trigger and in a quivering voice asked, "Are you a Nazi?"

In English he replied, "I am an American citizen and showed him his papers." Continuing, "I went to the U.S. in 1923."

The G.I. turned him over to an officer. After talking for a while, the officer asked for something to eat.

Adrian said, "We don't have anything to eat. No one in this town has anything to eat."

The officer sent for some food, enough to last Adrian's family for a week. Then with a piece of chalk, he wrote on the side of the house "Off Limits" and signed his name.

Adrian became home sick for the serenity of his Piņa Bay home in Panama. Life in Germany is a non-life. He got permission to travel back to Berlin to try and get papers to leave the country. He looked up an American officer named Mr. Wine who happened to be a Jew.

Mr. Wine said, "You made this mess and you are going to stay."

Adrian went back home, put on a short leather pants, put coffee, cigarettes and a camera in a nap sack and started walking to the Austria boarder and Italy. One evening he was eating in a cafe and talked to a man with a car. Adrian said, "I have coffee and cigarettes for you if you can get me to the Austria boarder."

The man said, "OK" and was able to drive through all the check points.

After dark, Adrian started walking across the boarder, keeping an eye on the searchlight that lit the area every 30 seconds. Soon he heard, "Hands up!"

Adrian said, "I have no arms."

The guards asked, "What are you doing here?"

Adrian said, "I want to go back home to Panama."

The guards said, "We will put you in jail and send you back to Berlin."

While in jail, the wife of the commander came to visit the prisoners. Adrian found a chance to tell her his story. When he finished she said, "My husband is a cruel man, I will try and persuade him to let you go."

The next day, Adrian was let out of jail. They asked him, "Do you have any money?"

Adrian said, "No, I only have this camera."

The guard gave him $15 in Austrian money for the camera, then told him to go the square in the center of town. There a mail truck pulled by horses will stop. A man will blow a trumpet and two police officers will appear. Present yourself to them.

Everything happened just as the guards said it would.

The police officer said, "Climb aboard."

The mail truck took Adrian far enough into Austria to move freely.

Adrian finally arrived at a seaport in Italy and found a Likes Line ship. He called to an officer on deck and asked to come aboard. The officer said, "Yes."

When aboard, the captain was curious as to what he wanted, sense the war had only been over a few weeks.

Adrian said, "I want to do some work for something to eat."

They put him to work and made him part of the crew. A few days latter, two policemen came and took him to the immigration office. The immigration officer told him, "You entered Italy illegally and must go back to Germany."

Adrian speaking in Spanish said, "I want to go back home to Panama."

The startled officer asked, "You speak Spanish too?"

Adrian said, "Yes, and that his home is in Panama and that the Americans in Germany would not give me a pass to leave. So I had to come illegally."

The officer said, "I will give you a visa for ten days. You have to be out of Italy by then or go back to Germany."

Mr. Adrian thanked him warmly, then wired his sister in Panama for boat passage money. In ten days he received the money and found a ship going to Panama.

When in Panama, the customs officer told Adrian, "You cannot get off the ship, you must go back to Germany. You left illegally and you have no visa for Panama."

Adrian asked, "Can I see my sister?"

The request was granted. He told his sister his story and she told the President of Panama who was a friend of the family. The President gave Adrian Panamanian citizenship papers. He was now home and no one can make him leave.

Augusto Adrian and His Women

Adrian married an Indian girl and had two boys by her. One day she ran off with another man for a while. When she came back, he would not take her back. The relationship was over.

Some time later, an Indian man paddled his canoe to Adrian's house on Piņa Bay and said, "I have a gift for you. I want you to have my daughter. She married a young Indian man a short time ago. While drunk one night, he tried to kill her. Will you take her?"

Adrian said he will take care of her for a while and sent his hired help, Pablo with the Indian man to bring the girl back. The girl was left at the mouth of the Piņa River about a mile away.

Darkness fell and they were not back yet. Pablo's canoe was very small. Adrian worried about the canoe, could it hold two people or if it rolled over could she swim? The moon was full and soon he saw a canoe in the moon light. It was Pablo with the young woman.

When she walked ashore, Adrian said, "She was the most beautiful Indian girl he had ever seen. Her figure was shapely. I went wild over her."

The next day he took her to Jaque to show her off to his friends. They said, "You finally got another one. She is beautiful, how did you get her?"

Adrian took the girl to Panama City for her first visit to a city. She did not like it and he sent her back on the next boat.

Soon, the Indian girl's husband had left the tribe, so it was safe for her to go back home.

Bartering With the Indians

Since the Spaniards, Indians have hid their gold, even to this day. Mr. Adrian gained the confidence of an Indian Chief. He showed Adrian a large bag of gold coins dated in the '1800s. The chief was willing to sell ten of them if the terms were right. The chief wanted a carbide lamp, salt, shotgun and shells for the shotgun plus twenty silver dollars for each coin.

Mr. Adrian went to Panama City and bought all the items. Back at Piņa Bay, he asked the manager of the Club de Pesca to take him thirty miles down the coast to the Indian village. The manager used one of his flying bridge fishing boats. When the Indians saw this boat they ran into the jungle, they never had seen anything like it before. Adrian hollered for them to come out. They never showed their faces and they never trusted him again.

At another Indian tribe, the chief died of a snake bite and his wife wanted to sell off their gold. Adrian bought ten gold coins dated 1917 for ten silver dollars each. She showed him many more coins and some gold art crafts. Her price was high.

Adventure Photos - Motivation Tool Chest or TOC

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Copyright 2003 by Robert L. Webb
Goose Creek, South Carolina, USA